From Texas Hill Country to Ventura
Hello from Ventura, California!
Driving took the main stage this week. We left Texas Hill Country behind for the coast of California. The exact route? Please, allow me to enlighten you and share all that I learned…
An early morning rainstorm slowed the beginning of our drive from Boerne, Texas, to Marfa. It wasn’t too long before it eased up, but it felt strange. I don’t often think of Texas when I think of downpours turning in to hail. But then again, Texas is a big state. In fact, it comprises about 7% of the United States’ landmass, ranking second to Alaska in size. All of this is to say that though I may not think of Texas as a place of rainstorms and hail, the boundaries of the state encompass several geographical and ecological zones, each with their own unique weather patterns.
The Texas Hill Country is within what’s known as the Edwards Plateau, a region once predominately covered by grasslands. The irregular but intense rains carve the limestone bedrock exposing underlying granite, ultimately defining the physical hilly geography. The introduction of ranching, however, defines the surface of the landscape we see today. Cattle graze on grass. So, more cattle, less grass. I would be naive to think that cattle is the only thing shaping the future of this region, because, among other sociopolitical trends, there are a myriad of climatic trends impacting and/or causing erratic weather globally, but often those patterns are less tangible. In this instance, one can physically see that this area is not mostly comprised of greenery today. However, in contrast to Marfa, the first stop on our route to California, it was much greener. Again, “Texas is textured by a landscape as varied as it is big,” a quote I read while in Boerne from author Brian R. Chapman, a senior research scientist at the Texas Research Institute for Environmental Sciences at Sam Houston State University.
Next stop is Marfa, a truly fascinating place in my opinion. Situated in far west Texas, about 70 miles east of Mexico (as the crow flies), is a tiny speck of a town in an even dryer climate. A place that once served as just a water stop for the trains passing through became a decently populated place by the mid 20th century. When I say “decently populated” I am only talking about 3,500 people, but if you’ve ever been to Marfa you know how small it feels, so that number seems disproportionately large. In the latter half of the 20th century the town’s reputation as merely a crossroads dramatically shifted when artist Donald Judd purchased considerable plots of land. Art installations and galleries began characterizing the town. In addition to the booming art scene, the town is now increasingly known as a trendy tourist destination. The town has become a hipster haven, bustling with cute shops, artisanal markets, and a revamped saloon that attracts locals and tourists alike. This rebranding comes with a cost, though. Properties are increasingly desirable to outsiders. Many locals, if not already bought out by those seeking to own property in Marfa, are pushed out due to the increased cost of living. Today, the population is about half of what it once was, but younger folks moving to Marfa is trending. To follow a trend, however, often comes with side effects, which may include naivety of knowing the entire story. I certainly do not claim to know the entire story of this town, but I do wonder what Marfa’s future will look like.
En route from Marfa to our next destination, Tucson, Arizona, we drove through what felt like a barren, desolate landscape. Most of that land, though, come to find out, is privately owned, mainly by ranchers. More land means more grass for more cattle which means more money. Here we are again with the cattle! In this even dryer, more arid region, compared to that of the Hill Country, one needs the land to support any cattle population for any duration of time. There is so little rain that one cannot rely on a small plot of land to provide enough grass for the cows. Just makes you wonder, in an already challenging environment, how does one see and plan their future there on a warming planet?
The road continues through El Paso, the southernmost stretch of New Mexico, and finally to Tucson, Arizona where we only stayed long enough to rest our heads.
On to California! First stop, Joshua Tree. From flat and arid to snowcapped mountains in the distance, California offers new sights. Scrambling on boulders in Joshua Tree National Park reminds me of the childlike wonder we all hold (perhaps deeply) within us. The landscape is jaw dropping, and alien like. There are new plants to see, like the Joshua Tree itself, but also cacti and shrubs. I was mostly taken with the Saguaro cactus. I am truly still in awe with how big those grow to be!
Finally, after a few long drives, we reach the coast, and are settled for a couple days in Ventura, California. Ocean when you look west, and mountains when you look east. It’s an entirely different feeling. Though I may prefer some climates to others, and find certain geologic features more fascinating than the rest, I don’t think any one is more significant than the next, in fact I am humbled by them all.
Until Next time,
Lil
Marfa, Texas
Joshua Tree National Park, California
Twentynine Palms, California
Ventura, California
