A Trip to Maui
Welcome to The Suds, the new era of this newsletter…
It’s been a few weeks since I’ve sent a newsletter, but like I said before, I am figuring out what this looks like for me, and how to incorporate my passion for writing about travel in addition to actually traveling. As much as I want to achieve weekly frequency (and maybe one day I will!), I have other responsibilities pulling me in different directions, so I will send updates when I can!
Please enjoy reading about my recent trip to Maui…
I write to you from sunny Maui, Hawai’i. Today marks my return to the coterminous United States, however, so I thought I’d share a bit about the trip while it’s still fresh.
As the second largest of the eight major islands comprising this state, Maui is the third most populous behind O’ahu and the big Island of Hawai’i—but officially there are 137 islands that make up all of Hawaii’s island chain. Though isolated in the Pacific Ocean, the island of Maui is bustling. It’s obvious upon arrival that tourism drives much of the local economy, but before today’s rates of increased travel, the sugarcane industry acted as the last major economic backbone. The end of the sugarcane era on Maui, however, highlights the island’s vulnerability as a tourism economy. There are no significant agricultural exports supporting the island anymore, so tourism is the current answer. As a result, increasing numbers of locals are priced out of paradise. It’s a double edged sword.
This trip to Maui is the first I’ve really traveled alone within my own country. Though, it doesn’t really feel like my home country. I say this not because I don’t feel welcome, but because it is quite literally so isolated from the other states that it naturally invokes a different feeling. It is definitely a vacationers paradise. I do think there is something for everyone here, whether that includes hiking, biking, and surfing, or alternatively, scenic driving, resort lounging, dining, and even shopping.
Conceptualizing the development of this island is perplexing to me, considering the logistics it takes to build here. There is an element of time that doesn’t exist in the other parts of the country. Much more foresight is required to build. That in and of itself is something I’ve never taken the time to think about until visiting this place. It may also explain why some restaurants, stores, apartments, etc. appear dated, at least compared to many modern standards, but I find this built landscape charming. Obviously there are several other factors shaping development, but I certainly wouldn’t say I am the most qualified to delve into details here. Ultimately, no built structure really compares to Maui’s natural landscape.
From nearly every vantage point you see volcanic formed mountains defining the backdrop. Everything looks and feels lush, and the greenery only further compliments the spectrum of blues characterizing the ocean. Though there are often clouds in in the sky by mid afternoon, the sun never seems blocked for more than 20 minutes. The wind, however, is hard for me to ignore. Moments of calm air are worth cherishing. I am not entirely sure if the time of year plays a role in the particularly strong air currents, but regardless, Maui is generally known as a windy place. In fact, this element of wind was a major contributor to the devastation of Lahaina, as it exacerbated the growth of the fires that took the lives of over a hundred people, and destroyed families, homes, and livelihoods alike in August of 2023. Though I was not personally affected by these fires, I think it important to acknowledge this tragedy, and extend my deepest condolences to those who lost family and friends, and the entirety of a once vibrant community. The damage is still ever-present in Lahaina today, only random buildings and parcels of land remain intact, and in the places where everything is gone, the roads are still closed, access blocked to non-locals. A tragedy like this, of course, is never an easy thing to recover from, it may never be recoverable. But the impact truly underscores the relative size and isolation of this island.
Maui may be a small island in the middle of the Pacific, but it’s filled with unique quirks. I woke up to roosters every morning, for one, not something I typically experience unless on a farm. There are roosters everywhere, roaming the streets and lawns at what felt like every corner! The overall vibe is just different than what I am used to. I feel lucky to have watched sea turtles waddling on to shore, and I even surfed over some turtles, something I never imagined I’d do. This island is a special place. In my short time visiting I experienced a wide range of activities, from beach days and surfing, to hiking, and site-seeing. My family residing on the island took me to several great restaurants and coffee shops, each unique, but all with locally rooted offerings.
I am grateful to have played in such warm ocean waters, driven the gorgeous scenic drive to Hana, hiked among lush flora and fauna, learned phrases and words unique to the Hawaiian language, and watched the sun set above the clouds from the highest point on the island. I am used to traveling, and saying goodbye, but this is definitely a hard one.
Until next time,
Lil
Sea turtles at Ho’okipa Beach
Dinner at Ekolu Kitchen, featuring calamari katsu, a common local dish
A scenic view point on the Road to Hana drive
Sunset from the top of Haleakalā, the major volcano making up the island itself
